For six years, Porn Eab has pedalled his rusting rickshaw along Phnom Penh’s narrow lanes and wide avenues.

The work leaves his muscles exhausted at the end of the day, when the wiry man parks his rickshaw in an alleyway and beds down for the night on its bucket seat.

“It’s a hard job. It makes my legs tired,” says Mr. Eab while he waits for customers one morning, one hand resting on his cyclo, as the vehicles are known here.

 Porn Eab poses with his cyclo in Phnom Penh. (Photo: Arantxa Cedillo)

Porn Eab poses with his cyclo in Phnom Penh. (Photo: Arantxa Cedillo)

But the cyclo, once an iconic fixture in this bustling Asian city, has seen better days.

There used to be 10,000 cyclo drivers wheeling down Phnom Penh streets just a decade ago. These days, however, there are fewer than 1,500 cyclos in the city, according to a local advocacy group that helps the often-impoverished cyclo drivers.

“People take pity on the cyclo drivers,” says Im Sambath, a project officer with the Cyclo Center. “They think the work is too hard for the drivers, so they are reluctant to take them.”

It’s also a sign of changing times. Although Cambodia remains one of the poorest countries in the region, its economy has pushed forward steadily over the last decade.

In the meantime, the city’s once placid streets have become thick with traffic.

“Cambodians want to be modern,” says Mr. Sambath. “The economy is developing. People want to use faster vehicles because they think the cyclo is slow.”

Indeed, wheeling down Monivong Boulevard, a main thoroughfare that bisects the city, a cyclo is passed by a swarm of motorcycles, belching trucks and flashy new cars with brand names splashed proudly on their sides. Huffing and puffing in the curb lane, traffic whizzing by just inches away, the man pedalling the cyclo is quickly left behind.

And although he would rather be doing anything but, Roeun Rom, a part-time driver and farmer, says it’s the only way to make money for his children back home in the provinces when the rice isn’t ready to be harvested.

“I have no choice,” Mr. Roeun says. “I need to keep driving cyclos.”

 

This story first appeared in The Christian Science Monitor.